Pan cone rubbers come in two sizes:

1. 40mm
2. 50mm

The size of the rubber that fits on to the toilet are all the same size, just the part fits on the flush pipe is what varies.

In the video below I show you the easiest way, the way that I do it and found to be the easiest.

This video will help you swap out the rubber on the back of the toilet where it leaks water every time you flush the toilet.

If you have a choice between key seal and pan cone rubbers, take the pan cone as I find they last longer and less prone to leak.

As always remember I am a licensed plumber and you can my full disclaimer here.

So with that all said and done, let’s get into the meat of this short guide.

You will need a couple things.

• New spout
• Thread tape
• Shifter

There is no need to turn the water off for this job. Unless you are going to turn the taps on NO water is going to come out unless you have leaking tap. then you might need to replace the tap washer.

First up remove the existing spout by unscrewing the spout with your shifter going in an anti-clockwise motion.

Once you’ve got loose enough you should be able to finish off unscrewing it by hand.

Once you have it all off, you can replace the cover plate or it may not have one. All are different.

Remove the thread tape best you can and then place the new cover plate over the brass lug if you have a cover.

Thread tape the lug up running your thread tape in a clockwise motion, going around say 15 times.

Screw on your new spout and tighten up until the spout looks straight or square.

Turn the tap on and test to see if you have no leaks around where you screwed the spout on.

If no leaks, the jobs done, pack up or move on to fixing that leaking tap.

As you can see it’s not a hard job to replace the spout and the steps are the same for bath, kitchen spout even replacing a showerhead.

The video below will show you how I do it for those who need to watch, much like me.

You will need a couple of things before you crank off.

1. Adjustable shifter
2. Thread tape
3. New shower head.
4. And another job that will take 55 minutes to fill in the rest of the hour.

You don’t have to worry about turning the water off. It’s already off at the taps.

1. Remove the existing showerhead by using your adjustable spanner and unwind the outlet. Turn the head anti-clockwise and remove completely.

2. Remove any thread tape that is still on the thread to make it easier to remove the cover plate.

3. Remove the cover plate and slide the new one on in its place

4. Thread tape up the thread, making sure that you roll the thread on clockwise. I normally go around the thread say 6-8 times. It does depend on the thickness and brand of tape you use.

5. Now, this is totally up to you what you do here. There is a water restrictor that is located in the base on most showerheads where you screw the shower outlet onto the wall.

You can remove it is like, which will give you full flow and not what the written on the box. Just remember you will use a ton more water depending on your water pressure.

By removing the restrictor you are here in Australia breaking the laws and really if going down that track you already are by replacing your showerhead.

Yep you must be a plumber at the time of writing this anyways and that is in 2020. As you can see I care NOT. In fact, I think its a horse ass hence why I love making these short videos for you guys.

At least you do the job and do it the right way most of the time haha

6. Screw on your new showerhead, going clockwise and don’t overtighten. If it leaks once you test it just give it another full turn. Try not to go back on the tightening. You can a little but not like half a turn as such.

7. Keep the lock nuts to the right side as you are looking at it and see in the video the reasoning why.

Righto guys, know you know how to change a shower head over and how simple it is to remove and install a new one for your bathroom, ensuite, home, office, flat.

Just remember with the restrictor, if you live in an area where the water is full of calcium like it is here in central West Oz just rip it out but don’t tell anyone I said that especially the Plumbing Board who just takes our money and lines their own pockets.

Hmm sorry about that, got off course there a bit.

Anyhoo.

Well guys if you have any requests or need any ideas leave us a comment below and I will see what I can do

Hey, guys jack here… you guys already know I don’t sugar coat and fluff stuff up so here is my easy step by step guide for you to installing a new inlet valve bottom entry to your toilet cistern.

You will need a new float inlet valve. Everyone has there own preferences and here in Australia, for years I was always a Fluidmaster user but now days for the simple and easy installation and adjustments I love Reeces performa inlet valves.

How to fix a leaking toilet is a lot easier than you might think.

In this article, we’ll show you how to work threw and solve the problem of your toilet that is leaking. Don’t be afraid of the plumbing terminology. The fixes are straight forward even if you don’t have any plumbing experience. So now there is no excuse so stop wasting water and fix the toilet!

Toilet tank repairs can be a easy fix once you know the basics of a toilet. There is really only few places where a toilet tank can leak. Internally from either the float valve that is adjusted to high of not sealing shut or seating rubber or flapper rubber that lets water leak into the toilet pan. Externally from the pan cone rubber or if a enclosed type then from the screw seals where mounts to the pan. To find out which one it is do these checks below to find which it is.

First of all we have to find out if the toilet tank is leaking all the time or only when its flushed. If its all the time and you can hear water running then i suggest to check out leaky toilet check. If its a leaking float valve then check out replacing a leaking float valve on a toilet. If its the seating rubber then check this post out about seating washer replacement on your leaking toilet. There all the internal leaks on a standard toilet system so if its none of the above leaks then its time to check out the external one’s.

Toilet Tank Pan cone Rubber

If you are reading this part then we know its not the above problems with your toilet. What you have done now tho is eliminated the internal side of a leaking tank. There is only a couple more things to check to see where this toilet tank is leaking. On a standard toilet suite you have a holding tank or cistern that is mounted onto the wall. Between the tank and the toilet pan there is a pipe called flushing pipe. The rubber that attaches the flushing pipe to the toilet pan is called pan cone rubber. The other end just has a oring and locking nut that is screwed to the tank. The pan cone rubber comes in either 40mm or 50mm size. The only part of the rubber that varies in size is the part that attaches to the flushing pipe. Where it attaches to the toilet pan is same size. As mentioned before there is a rubber oring seal that can leak where the flushing pipe joins onto the toilet tank behind the large nut. Both are easy to replace once you have determined which one it is. Once apart might as well replace both the rubber pan cone and oring for the extra cost of maybe a dollar for the flushing pipe seal so why not.  With newer toilet pan there is another rubber seal called key seal cone rubber. Its taken the place of the standard pan cone rubber and fitting is much the same as standard pan cone rubber.

Simple Way To Install A Pan Cone Rubber

Replacing a pan cone rubber isnt hard at all. With a standard pan cone rubber 1st up turn the water off to the tank. Once water is off empty the tank of its water as its only a safety precaution. Once the water is drained loosen off the big nut on the flushing pipe that is located underside of the tank. Once loose let the nut slide down the pipe. Push downwards on the flushing pipe to remove the pipe from the tank housing. Then its a simple pull the pan cone rubber off the toilet and replace it. Installation is the reverse process of how to remove and that is a simple as that.

You will need a new pan cone rubber. They come in two different sizes and they are 50mm and 40mm.

The only part that varies in size is the part that fits on the pipe. The rubber that connects to the toilet bowl are all the same size.

If you’re not sure what size you need, just rip the old one off and take it in with you when grabbing the new one.

The video below goes through the steps that I do and there is no set way really.

This is how easy it is. Now for those who know me you already know I don’t drag it out and fluff it up.

1. Turn the water off if you like and drain the tank.
2. Remove the nut from where it attaches to the toilet tank and remove it from the housing.
3. Pull the rubber off from the back of the toilet bowl.
4. Remove the rubber from the flush pipe and push on the new one.
5. Locate the pipe into the back of the bowl but don’t roll the rubber on yet.
6. Attach the pipe to the tanks and tighten up then roll the rubber over on the bowl.
7. Test it for any leaks and jobs done.

For more tips check out the home page. See how to install a new toilet inlet valve here

I’m not going to give you all the fluff like most other sites telling you how to test it and why you need to do or that or what it’s all for.

I’m guessing you already know all that or you don’t care.  I know you landed here wanting to know how to change a temperature-pressure relief valve and that is what you are going to get.

There are a few things you will need, and they are as follows:

• New TPR (temperature pressure relief) valve
• Plumbers or thread tape
• Adjustable wrench, footprints or a tool similar

Make sure that when you buy your new valve that you get the same KPA/PSI pressure rating as the existing. To check, on the existing valve, there is a tag or plate with the maximum rating on it. See the image below for more details.

Now you have all the gear let’s get into it.

1. First up you need to turn the water off to the unit itself. There is no need to turn the water off to the whole home unless there is no isolation valve is installed at the tank.
2. Once you have turned the water off, pull the lever on the TPR valve to release any pressure build-up in the tank or you can open up a hot water tap.
3. Thread tape up your new valve and have it ready to swap out once you have removed the old tpr valve.
4. Remove the drain pipe that is attached is any and remove the nipple that the drain pipe attaches to.
5. Remove the old pressure temperature relief valve and put to the side.
6. Screw in the new until its tight and the outlet is facing the same location to reattach the drain pipe. Never go backward. If you go too far past the position just go around again.
7. Screw the brass nipple into the valve and attach the drain pipe.
8. Turn the water on, close off the hot tap if you opened one and then check the valve for any leaks.
9.  Pull the lever to test and that’s it all done and dusted.

See it’s not that hard to replace a water heater tpr valve that is leaking

The biggest point to take away is to turn the water off before removing the tpr valve.

More than likely you are dealing with hot water here and get the exact same size pressure rating as what valve is there you have that you’re going to replace.

When was the last time you replaced the anode in your storage hot water tank?

This step by step guide will work with all standard tapware we have here in Australia, but the principles should be the same elsewhere.

You will need a few things to do this little job, and as always you can read my disclaimer here

What you will need to reseat a bath tap

There are a few things you will need and they are:

• Tap reseater
• Tap washer
• Body washers
• Spindle O-rings
• Adjustable wrench
• Pliers
• Tap Lube

First off, make sure the water is off.

1. Open the taps allow the water to drain also takes the pressure off the seat
2. Remove the handles and the cover plates/wall flangers that sits behind the handles.
3. Remove the spindle with your adjustable wrench or tool you are using.
4. Remove the tap washer and unscrew the spindle from the body
5. Remove the o-rings from the spindle and replace with new
6. Replace the red fiber washer
7. Lube up the thread of the spindle and replace back inside the body
8. Reseat the seat as shown in the video.
9. Remove all the brass filings by the methods shown in the video.
10. Reinstall the spindles.
11. Attach the cover plates and place the handles in position.
12. Turn the water on and test. Make sure to remove all the brass filings before turning the taps off fully.
13. Clean up any mess and that is it all done.

As you can see it isn’t very hard to reseat taps and repair leaking taps. Just make sure to remove all the filings and turn the water off before starting.

Always replace the o-rings, body washer and tap washer and reseat every time. If you’re not going to reseat the seat and only replace the tap valve when it was leaking you just wasting your time.

8 out of 10 times just replacing the tap jumper valve will fail and leak.

These steps to reseating a tap can be used for all, bath, shower, kitchen, laundry as long as they are serviceable the principles are the same.

Hi all and welcome to DIY Plumbing Guide. This time we are going to run through the basics on how to install a single handle kitchen faucet. You will see how easy kitchen faucets are to install. We will do a step by step from start to finish so by the end you will be fully confident so you can install your new Delta Leland single handle kitchen faucet.

Things You Will Need

There is a few tools you will or may need and they are not less then

• Adjustable Wrench
• Screw Driver
• Allen Wrench which is included in the box
• Delta Leland Kitchen Faucet

Lets Get Into It

Step 1- 1st up make sure that the water is turned off to the old faucet. That may include turning the water off to the home if there is no isolation point close to the faucet.

Step 2- Open the faucet to drain out any water that is in the pipes. Remove the old faucet depending which you have. There is 2 main different types and that is a single hole or 3 hole faucet. If you have a single hole sink there is nothing else you need. If you have a 3 hole sink and want to cover the old holes then make sure the new faucet comes with a cover bracket. See the pictures to see the difference. Note the base plate on the top pic. That is a 3 hole faucet with cover plate

Step 3- Feed the flexible hose through the spout and then the hub. Make sure that you have the hose and spout running in the right direction. Once that is done align the spout on to the hub. There is a little clip on the hub and a hole in the spout. Work it on until the clip goes into the hole. Attach the sprayer to the hose and tighten by hand.

Step 4- Feed the faucet through the hole in the sink or bench. Careful guiding the supply lines through as well. Once all way down take the mounting bracket and slide onto the shank of the faucet. Make sure the supply lines are with in the bracket or you will not be able to screw the nut on.

Step 5- Screw the nut on to the shank and tighten the nut up to the under side of the sink. This is going to hold the faucet in position once done up tight. You can use a screw driver on the end for extra tightness. Before you tighten all the way down make sure the handle is in the right position that suits you

Step 6- Place the hose weight over the hose and slide it on. Push the end of the hose onto the faucet outlet then place the clip over the join to hold it all together. Depending on which faucet you have as some don’t use the weight anymore they use a strong magnet in it place. See your instructions on which you have for more details.

Step 7- Install the water supply to the lines. Most new faucet lines are marked now with red for hot and blue for cold. Be careful not to kink the supply lines or you will have to replace them. Standard size fitting for the hose on the faucet is 3/8″ but if you have anything different you will have to get the correct fittings to suit from your hardware joint.

Never our tighten the fittings but make them firm with your adjustable wrench.

Step 8- Once both hot and cold lines are on and tight. Turn on the faucet fully open then slowly turn the water supply on. What this does is removes any air in the line and any foreign matter if any got in. Once ran for say 30 seconds turn the faucet off and check for any leaks.

For a more hands on or prefer to learn by watching then check out this video

Conclusion

There it is as simple as that. We have just showed you a step by step on how to install a single lever kitchen faucet the easy way. Please note that this is a guide and some faucets will be different but similar. If you are looking at getting a new faucet and not sure which one yet make sure you check out our review on the delta faucet.

Check out our review on the Delta Leland Pull Down Kitchen Faucet Here

Toilet seats really only come in two shapes and they are round or elongated. This is going to be very basic in the steps so you might be able to skip a couple to fast track it.

First up you will need a pencil or pen to write down your measurements a note pad and a tape measure. This day and age you can use the good old mobile over a pen and pager. Either way whichever is best suited for you. You can even just use a tape measure that you will need by the way and tap a snapshot with the camera and no writing at all.

It will be easier to measure the bowl when the seat is off but it’s not a necessity.

How To Measure The Toilet Bowl

Ok, let’s all start off on a level playing field which will make it easy for us all. We have just moved into our new house and the toilet bowl has no seat on it as the previous owners took it with them. Now we all have a clean slate to work with which will make it more easier.

Step 1- With the toilet seat off the bowl, you will see there are 2 holes at the rear of the bowl. Make sure you measure the holes that are closest to the toilet rim itself. That is where the toilet seat is bolted to the bowl and held down. Now grab the tape measure and measure between the 2 holes on the toilet bowl. Most standard toilet bowls and seats have a measurement of 5-1/2 inches. See the picture where the number 1 is where to measure. You can also see how to measure the toilet seat itself as well.

Step 2- Now that we have the toilet seat measurement sorted now we need to measure the width of the toilet bowl. Measure the toilet bowl from the widest part of the bowl. Make sure you do measure from the widest part as per the picture below. The same goes for the toilet seat. When you are measuring the toilet seat just follow the same as you did when measuring the bowl. When measuring the toilet set tho it will be easier for you to turn the seat over and measure the back. Standard size measurement should be around 14 to 14-1/2 inches

Step 3- Ok now 3rd and final step is to measure to see if you have a round or elongated toilet bowl.

Round toilet seat- Hold the measuring tape at the center front of the toilet rim and measure the distance from the front to the holes at the back as explained above where the toilet seat hinges bolts onto the bowl. This measurement for a round toilet bowl should be between 16 and 17 inches. If that is the case then you have a round toilet bowl.

Elongated toilet seat- Hold the measuring tape at the center front of the toilet rim and measure the distance from the front to the holes at the back as explained above where the toilet seat hinges bolts onto the bowl. This measurement for a round toilet bowl should be between 18 and 19 inches. If that is the case then you have an elongated toilet bowl.

Conclusion

Make sure that your measurements are correct as most places will not accept returns due to hygiene reasons. Remember to be gentle with the toilet bowl as well as it’s porcelain and can crack or break easily.

Extra care is needed if installing a heavy-duty toilet seat as their bolts are made from stainless steel then over plastic there for can easily over tighten the nuts and crack the bolt hole housing.